Bikeland Group Rides:

Road: Bikeland leads weekly Saturday morning
road rides leaving the store at 7:00 am. All rides are
leader assisted, no drop rides. There are 3 different
skill levels, pick ride that you feel comfortable with..
Click here for more details on these rides.

Mountain: Bikeland also offers weekly Mountain
bike rides at 8:30a.m.on Sunday mornings at
Cypresswood.

Directions to Huntsville State Park: view map
(Approx. 34.5 miles or 30 min. from The Woodlands.) North on I-45, exit Huntsville State Park exit, head west under overpass 2 miles to park entrance.

This is an easy trail with some fun technical areas
for those who want a challenge. All levels of abilities are welcome to come. No one will be left behind.

For more information on rides in our area.Click here

Interested in getting a professional road or time trial fit? Bikeland has two certified and experienced BG FIT specialist and is now proud to be the only store in the entire Houston area to offer professional BG FIT for our great customers. Body Geometry Fit Integration Technology has been developed by the world’s leaders in bicycle fitting expertise, none other than Dr. Andy L. Pruitt Director of Boulder Center for Sports Medicine and bio-mechanics and time trial specialists Todd Carver. Andy has over 30 years of experience in making bicycle fitting a science and is responsible for the elite of elites, athletes such as Lance Armstrong, Floyd Landis, Peter Reid, 3-time World Ironman along with hundreds of professional cyclist and thousands of everyday riders.

Click here to see more.

Interested in joining Bikelands Racing Team?

So you think you have that competitive spirit in you? Wanting to improve your cycling and not too sure how to go about it?

Soon you will have the opportunity to become a part of something exciting and new. A chance to prove what great cyclist you are.

Bikeland will be announcing a road and mountain bike team assembled and ready to race before the fall cup racing season begins. More to follow soon, for more information Contact Bikeland

Replace Cables And Housing

Treat your bike to new cables and housing each season, and you'll notice a world of difference Like ants to a sticky soda can, mud, dirt and water are drawn to protective cable housing segments over summer, causing your cables to become rusted or frayed. When this happens, your brakes will feel gritty and rough, and that smooth shifting you had in June will drop to barely functional by fall. Now's the time to replace brake and gear cables and housing. Here's how.

1. Before You Start
* Brake and gear housings are different. Brake housing is made from a single flattened and coiled piece of wire. Cut ends usually have sharp burrs that require filing. Gear housing is made up of many pieces of small-gauge wire that run lengthwise. Gear housing ends do not require filing.

* Cut new cables and housing to match the old lengths. They should be long enough to allow the handlebar to rotate from side to side without interference. If the ends of any of your old housing pieces are bent, add another inch or two when you cut your new piece. It's likely that the old piece was too short. * Before removing old cables and housing, take note of how they are routed on or through your frame, brakes, levers and derailleurs (this varies on some bikes) and how your cables attach to your shifters (varies by component spec), so you can install new ones properly.

2. Brake Cables and Housing
* Using a hex wrench (sizes vary, though 5mm is most common), loosen the front and rear brake-cable pinch bolts, take off the end crimps and slide out the cables. Remove the cables and housing. * Before installing new housing, turn the brake barrel adjusters (either on the levers or the brake-caliper arms) in all the way, then back them out three turns. This provides cable-tension adjustability should you need it later. Also, drip a small amount of oil, such as TriFlow, inside both ends of the filed housing then finish off by attaching end caps. * Install housing, then insert new cable starting at the lever, making sure that when you reach the caliper you run it along the groove on the arm and underneath the pinch-bolt washer. (If the cable is attached incorrectly, it could slip under heavy braking.) Pull the cable through the pinch mechanism until each brake pad clears the rim by about 1mm, then secure the pinch bolt. If you want a little more clearance between the pads and rim, turn the barrel clockwise one full turn. Finish off by attaching cable crimps.

3. Gear Cables and Housing
* Shift each derailleur to its easiest gear. Using a hex wrench, loosen the pinch bolts and slide out cables the same way you did for brake cables.
Remove the gear cables and housing from your bike. * Install new cables and housing, feeding the cable through starting at the levers. * Once new cables and housing are installed, adjust derailleurs using the barrel adjusters either on the shift levers, arms or cable stops on the down tube. To adjust the rear, pedal and shift the chain to the big chainring, click the rear shifter to the second gear and watch for the chain to move one cog. If it doesn't, turn the barrel counterclockwise for more cable tension. If it jumps two cogs, turn the barrel clockwise to loosen tension.
The front derailleur cable usually requires more tension than the rear.
Shift the chain to the small or middle ring and largest rear cog. Turning the barrel counterclockwise, tighten the cable until the inner cage plate rubs the chain, then undo the last turn on the barrel to eliminate the rub.

1. Brake housing needs to be filed; gear housing does not.
2. Adjust cable tension and fine-tune your shifting by turning the barrel adjusters on your brake levers.
3. Loosen the derailleurs with a hex wrench so you can slide old cables out. A beat-up bike will feel special again with shiny new cables, housings and end caps.

You can get all of these tools in stock at Bikeland.